We grew up with classic Central European Christmas markets. Hot chocolate, mulled wine, the scent of gingerbread, fairy lights everywhere, hundreds of stalls with delicacies and handcrafted goods – essential elements of the holiday season. If this is the image in your mind right now, let go of those expectations, because even if you find something similar here, the experience won’t be the same! What is Christmas in Tenerife?
Fairy Lights and Palm Trees – Christmas in Tenerife
The Feria de Navidad opens every year in early December along the promenade by the port, right next to the ocean. Municipal promotional materials promise a magical atmosphere. The reality? If you’re expecting traditional European Christmas markets – Vienna, Strasbourg, Budapest, Prague… prepare yourself, this is… well, a completely different league.
We’ve been living here since 2022, and I’ve learned that Canarian Christmas isn’t about the Central European winter wonderland. There are no chestnut vendors – we’ll come back to this in an autumn post, because the island has plenty of sweet chestnut trees. No breath clouds in the air. No cold that makes you duck into a café to warm up. No mulled wine (because who drinks mulled wine at 22°C?).
So What Makes Tenerife Christmas Magical?
It’s December, and at 7 PM we’re walking around in t-shirts and light trousers. The “Christmas atmosphere” happens at 22°C. The first year this was a shock, but the contrast made it more interesting than oppressive. The second year I missed the biting cold on my face and the scent of pine, the third year I was frustrated that there are only artificial trees here, and now in the fourth year I’ve realized I really love it, because we don’t rush December for just three days – we celebrate something throughout the entire month.
What Do You Actually Get at Puerto de la Cruz Christmas Market?
About 20-30 stalls. In the big European Christmas markets, that’s just one section. Here, that’s the whole thing. Local handicrafts, some Christmas decorations, Canarian creations. Traditional fairground games for kids – spinning wheels, dart games, that fishing game where everything’s slightly broken but somehow still works.
Plaza del Charco becomes the real center. Street musicians, spontaneous concerts, that organized chaos that happens when locals gather. Random Thursday evening – live music, kids running around, people just… hanging out and chatting. No entrance fee, no program, just vibes.
The artisan market (Plaza Reyes Católicos, usually first weekend of December) features real local creations, not mass-produced Christmas junk from Chinese shops. We found handmade ceramics, local honey, genuine Canarian products. Usually open 11 AM-2 PM and 6-10 PM.
Food: There’s no classic Christmas street food abundance. There’s churros, a few snack stands, maybe some local treats. That’s it. If you want a proper meal, head to a nearby guachinche afterward.
Timing matters. Go between 8-10 PM when it’s busier. Yes, like everywhere in Spain, this is still active time here, not bedtime. But even then it’s much less crowded than European markets ever are.
Parking: Nightmare. Use the bus (Titsa lines stop near Plaza del Charco) or walk if you’re staying nearby. Forget the big car park on weekends. I always park further out, in the streets above Playa Jardín and walk from there. Plus there’s much less chance of a car break-in there – but anyway, if you don’t leave anything visible in the car, the chance drops to 0%. A bit higher up in Los Realejos you could even leave your car wide open, but still be careful in touristy areas!
Budget reality: Kids’ games 1-5 euros each. Handicrafts 10-50 euros. You won’t spend hundreds here – there isn’t enough to buy. At Northern European markets you can easily spend 100-150 euros in one evening with a family. That would be hard to do here.
Temperature: Seriously: it’ll be 20-24°C. Bring a sweater, because it does cool down in the evening (even in bad weather, max 15°C!), but leave the winter coat at home.
The magic isn’t in the market itself – but in experiencing how Canarians celebrate. Low-key, family-centered, with a seaside atmosphere and guys playing football in t-shirts. Decorations go up, Plaza de la Iglesia looks truly stunning with lights, and there’s festive atmosphere without the crowds and commercial pressure.
What’s Beyond the Christmas Market?
The real Christmas experience here is much broader. The island celebrates until January 6th – Epiphany, Three Kings Day – that’s the big event here, not December 24th.
At the end of December, kids are at the beach in the afternoon, then we go out to the “Christmas market” in the evening – this is normal. This messes with your head the first two years, then you get used to it. My 20-year-old goes Christmas swimming with friends. My 9-year-old still worries whether Santa will come if there’s no snow. (Spoiler: he does.)
For relocating families: The first Christmas will be tough if you’re coming from Central or Northern Europe. You’ll miss the traditional Christmas market energy – the mulled wine, the roasted chestnuts, the crowds, that specific winter atmosphere. You’ll miss going home in minus temperatures. You’ll miss everything that meant “real Christmas.”
The second year is easier. By the third you get used to it. By the fourth you’re saying: “You know what? This is pretty good too.”
The international school does the usual “Northern European Christmas” programs, so kids don’t miss out completely. But don’t expect it to be the same. It’s different. Completely different.
For digital nomads: Coworking spaces stay open. WiFi won’t magically improve because it’s Christmas (I wish). Everything’s slower around December 24-26 and January 1st, but otherwise it’s business as usual. And working in a t-shirt in winter? That’s something.
For tourists: Don’t make this the main attraction of your trip. But if you’re here anyway in December-January (escaping the cold), it’s worth an evening. Also worth checking out the lights in other towns like La Orotava, La Laguna, or Santa Cruz.
If you can let go of expectations and are open to a completely different Christmas – in ocean breezes, in t-shirts, with churros instead of gingerbread – the experience can be really enjoyable.
The market usually runs until early January. Check the Puerto de la Cruz Ayuntamiento website for specific programs and concert schedules.
